How Do I Choose the Right Active Ingredient for My Skincare Product?

Short answer: Start from the biological effect you need, not the ingredient name. The right active is the one whose mechanism matches your target claim, is compatible with your formulation and target skin type, and can be tested to a standard that supports the claim you want to make — not necessarily the most fashionable ingredient on the market.

How ingredient selection actually works

Our discovery platform, HexisPro.X, works from the opposite direction to most ingredient sourcing: instead of starting with a known ingredient and asking what it does, it starts with the biological target or pathway you want to affect and searches across a database of roughly 200,000 ingredients and materials, and more than ten billion recorded relationships between ingredients and biological activity, to identify candidates that plausibly act on it.

How Hexis Lab approaches this

Candidates identified this way are then validated in laboratory assays before being recommended — so ingredient selection is evidence-led from the start rather than being a marketing decision that gets tested afterwards.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I choose a trending ingredient or a proven one?

It depends on your claim and audience, but a trending ingredient still needs to be validated against your specific formulation and claim before it can be relied on.

Can AI really predict whether an ingredient will work?

AI-guided screening predicts plausible candidates worth testing; it narrows the field, but laboratory validation is still what confirms an ingredient actually works in your formulation.

Find the right active for your product

Tell us the effect you want and we will identify candidates worth testing.

Dr Olusola (Sola) Idowu is the founder of Hexis Lab. You can also meet the wider scientific team.