How Much Does It Cost to Develop a Skincare Product, and What Drives the Price?
Short answer: Cost is driven far more by how much testing and discovery a project needs than by the formulation itself. A product built around a well-established, already-validated active ingredient with standard in-vitro testing costs meaningfully less than a project that starts with open-ended ingredient discovery and requires bespoke assays or clinical substantiation. There is no single industry-wide number, because the two projects are structurally different pieces of work.
The main cost drivers
Discovery scope. Screening a known shortlist of candidate ingredients costs less than an open discovery search across a large ingredient database.
Testing depth. In-vitro assay testing is the baseline; adding bespoke assays, or progressing to human clinical testing, adds cost and time in roughly that order.
Formulation complexity. A single-active serum is simpler to stabilise and test than a multi-active formulation with compatibility and preservation challenges.
Claim ambition. A general marketing claim needs less evidence than a specific, comparative or clinical-sounding claim.
How Hexis Lab approaches this
Our engagement model is deliberately flexible — the same platform and team work with early-stage indie brands through to multinationals, and project scope (and therefore cost) is set around what evidence your specific claim actually requires, not a fixed package. The most cost-efficient way to start is a short scoping conversation before committing to a full testing programme.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is there a minimum budget to work with Hexis Lab?
Engagement is scoped per project rather than fixed to a minimum, and the team works with brands from startup to multinational scale.
Does testing always mean clinical trials?
No. Most efficacy and safety claims can be substantiated with in-vitro and in-silico testing; human clinical testing is only needed for specific claim types.
Get your project scoped
Costs depend entirely on scope. The fastest way to a real number is a short scoping conversation.
Dr Olusola (Sola) Idowu is the founder of Hexis Lab. You can also meet the wider scientific team.
